Wednesday 12th August - Akureyri

We berthed at Akureyri early in the morning. It was a cloudy overcast day, but quite mild at 10 degrees.

Akureyri as we approach our berth at the far left

A photo taken from the port of the town's iconic church, designed by Gudjon Samuelsson, the architect of Reykjavik's famous church, Hallgrimskirkja. We are aiming to visit Akureyri Church later today.

We had signed up for the coach tour of the town and local area and left at 8.30am. We drove out of the port, over a bridge to the other side of the fjord. It was a twenty mile drive to the turf farmhouse at Laufas. Our guide, Sigrid, was a local mother, whose 10 year old daughter was doing a sailing course.

We drove out of the town past the tunnelling works for the new road that is going under the mountain, cutting miles off the current route east, as well as ensuring all-year-round access. The existing mountain road is subject to snow closures in winter. Very noticeable at the entrance to the tunnel were the clouds of steam. Apparently, while tunnelling, they have struck a thermal spring which has stopped the work, with the water being diverted down into the fjord. I think our guide said the works have ceased for over a year while they try to work out what to do. We could see the gallons of hot water cascading down into the fjord. What a waste!

We reached Laufas after about 40 minutes. As we left the bus, I noticed how incredibly long it was. I don't think I have ever seen such a big bus!

55ft long!

The earliest records concerning Laufas show that there was a church there in 1057. The turf house was quite substantial and last occupied in the 1930's. It is a 19th century farmhouse, built in traditional Icelandic style from stone and turf. It is typical of homes from the 9th to the 19th century. It was very interesting to visit, as it had been fitted out with furniture and equipment from over a century ago.

The houses were linked by tunnels which contrasted greatly with the renovated living areas.

One of the linking tunnels

Next door was a very pretty white painted church built in 1865 with a small graveyard. The whole site is very attractive and in a beautiful position by the fjord. We were fortunate enough to see it all in strong sunshine.

The beautifully carved pulpit, made in 1698

We spent about an hour there and then drove back to the town to visit the most northerly botanical gardens in the world, which were founded in 1910 and opened to the public in 1912. As we neared the gardens, we drove through the oldest part of the town. The houses were built for merchants during the 19th century.

The botanical gardens.

The Icelandic plant section, which didn't contain many plants!

Our last stopping point was the Lutheran church, where a funeral was taking place. We waited for the funeral to end. When the service was over, we heard about ten Harley Davidson-type motorbikes revving up their engines as the hearse left the church. We learned from one of the mourners that the service was for a 53 year old biker who had died of MS. When the congregation had dispersed, we had a look inside the church, which was completed in 1940.

The obligatory model ship hanging from the ceiling

We then walked through the centre of the town and back to the ship for lunch on the aft deck. Back in our suite, Bisht and Elizabeth had run us a scalding-hot bubble bath. We left it and went up to the aft deck for lunch with Bob and Jennifer. By the time we came back down, it was still scalding hot! We both bathed, then went up on deck as the ship sailed out of Akureyri. It was raining, but we started looking for whales.
 

Maria enjoying the company of two Trolls!

A memorial to the owner of the boat Salon EA 300 when it was scrapped in 2010

Heidi with some friends!

We sailed along the fjord heading for the north-western tip of Iceland, about 160 miles away. We passed the tunnel construction site and could see the hot water pouring into the fjord.

The water from the hot spring pouring into the fjord

Further on towards the mouth of the fjord, we passed Laufas and then we began to see 'blows' from humpback whales. Captain Denis stopped the ship so that we could watch the whales. We saw many humpbacks, some of them coming very close to the ship. I think most people were able to get good photos of the whales. We were very wet and cold, but didn't want to stop looking at these magnificent creatures. We watched a mother and her calf aged about 2 years. Then, an adult came very close to the bow, disappeared under the ship and came up right where we were on the starboard side.

 

 

At around 5pm, we headed out of the fjord into heavy seas. We went to the briefing at 7pm and then to the bar for a drink. I had decided to eat in the cabin rather than in the dining room. The food was, at best, mediocre but with the seas heaving, it was enough for me and I went to bed at 9.30pm. Wendy stayed up and the sea became rougher, often breaking right over our windows, making her jump. The huge waves made the whole cabin dark as they were breaking over the side of the ship. Luckily for us, our group were going last on the Zodiac cruise tomorrow, so we didn't have to get up very early.